![]() I really need to recalibrate the volume markings on my vessles - my efficiency calculations have been out for a year now and I suspect it's because my volume measurements are so inaccurate. This usually results in much lower efficiency. BeerSmith says: Mash In: Add 11.7L at 70deg. I have a 2-bucket lauter tun, so I am planning to keep the mash warm in the pot for 75 minutes, then filter / sparge in the lauter tun I guess. Others use a 'normal' amount of water in the mash tun (say 1.25-1.5 qt/lb) and then add water to top up the batch while it is in the boiler. I have chosen the 'Single infusion, Light body, No mash out' profile in BeerSmith, I hope that is correct. I would have thought that was pretty damn good efficiency considering. Some no sparge brewers will fill their mash tuns to near capacity when mashing so they can do a slow drain to achieve something like a batch sparge. I am a no sparger, I set the mash profile in beersmith to the desired single infusion, mash in at the normal ratio and then adjust the mash out water volume to max out my esky, I get 70% efficiency. Haven't harvested yet, but am very happy I got anything at all, considering it's in its first year. :icon_offtopic: How big was your harvest? I didn't get any! I'm guessing yours were in the ground. I've only read a little about no-sparge, and have never tried it, but I suspect efficiency would take a bit of a blow. This sounds like something I'd like to try on the next run, could possibly save some time as well, is efficiency affected i wonder ? A 5 gallon MLT works for 5 gallon batches. Hadn't decided - but I think I will probably use a mashout (as described above) just to help with efficiency. Second, you need a large mash tun to do no-sparge due to the extra mash liquor, which some brewers may not have. When you say no sparge are you mashing in at a normal 3l/kg and then adding the rest of your water for mashout, or are you adding all your water at mash in and not mashing out? Don't worry too much about temps, make the big mashout 80-85 deg and you'll be right.Īwesome - think this pretty much answers my question The brewsheet should then report 0 litres as the required sparge water. Then have a look at the brewsheet preview and take the sparge water addition amount and add it as a mashout addition after your 60min mash has finished. Follow BeerSmith No Spreads Brewing offers an interesting alternative for those who do not want to deal with the trouble of shedding fly or scattering. Only a slight reduction in mash efficiency, somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-5, negligible to most homebrewers. Just set it up like a batch sparge with your mashin as normal. There’s no feature that BeerSmith could ever include that would prevent my Mum from dropping in right at the beginning of the boil. Beersmith no sparge May produce clearer and less astringent beer by keeping the pH of the wort low, thus reducing the tannins and phenols extracted during a traditional fly or batch sparge. ![]()
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